Hi all, well this is Beth aka Ma Sandar (this Burmese name means 'The Moon' - I'm not sure if this is because I am quietly radiant or white and round!) The name was given to me by a lovely guy in Chaing Mai - so I will assume the former (and anyway I'm red and round at the moment!)

Ma Sandar - the first day inside the camp: quite clearly radiating a quiet type of radiance

[***Warning: no longer true bit coming right up***] I'm afraid this diary entry won't have any photos as I don't have a digital camera (although maybe Ben you could add some in of my time there when you get chance?), no innuendos, and probably far fewer corny jokes than normal - so apologies! And Ben aka Pho Htaung has just posted a very colourful and insightful diary entry - so make sure you have a look at the previous 'Grange Hill' entry before you leave.

I am writing this from Mae Sot (the 'lawless border town' as described in the guide book) about to leave for Bangkok. But more about that in a bit - now the most important bit - the camp.....

So just where is Mae La Oon anyway?

As is normal (I understand) we left at 4am from the office in Mae Sariang (kindly woken by one of the guys there as both of us had turned our alarms off in our sleep). Ben and I sat in the back of the pickup truck on a plank, and were joined a few moments later by a guy from the NDD (New Democratic ....... - basically a non-violent version of the ABSDF, who have been our hosts) - i can't remember his name I'm afraid but he was a great guy and we chatted as we approached the bumpy bit. Oh and what a bumpy bit it was. Three hours of extreme bouncing on a wooden plank round precipitous bends as we climbed higher into the mountains and into thick jungle. All of the arse-numbing, dusty journey was worth the views as the mist cleared enough for us to make out the Salween River and on the other side - Burma. I can't actually describe how I felt - but I will remember it for a very long time.

We arrived into the camp and had our passes and passports checked, and Ben was told off for having his camera out - my first taste of the official line here. The setting is breathtaking - the Mae Sariang River winds it's way through the camp and bamboo huts perch on the sides of the river valley. Green forest (even in these high temperatures) persists on the uncleared slopes, and the mountains leading to Karen State and Burma are in the distance. The earth is dusty and rich orange and the people, many of whom are in traditional dress are colourful specs all over the hillsides.

My first day was a whirl of smiles, children (especially Win Win Yie and the girls - who do become a part of your everyday and whom i missed most of all when I left the camp - see Ben's 'Grange Hill' entry), trying to remember Burmese names and trying to speak the few Burmese words I could remember!

Beth with girls from Yaung Ni Oo.

Everyone was so friendly, inquisitive and kind - and as I stood on the football pitch/volleyball pitch/communal gathering space/helicopter landing pad in the dusk looking over the camp and the forest fires I felt very overwhelmed - happy and sad.

And that's what the camp is (to me anyway) a very happy place, with lots of lovely people, but also a very frustrating place and a sad place - when you learn about people's lives and their hopes. As I mentioned above - the forest fires are ever present at this time of year, and reminded me immediately of how vulnerable the camp and its inhabitants are. The first night I was there I heard the fire sirens repeatedly - there are no fire engines - just the inhabitants and their 'fire stations' - which are little plastic bags of water hanging from the huts, to be thrown at the fire. That night the fires came very close to one of the sections over the other side of the valley (where Htew Yee lives - more about her later). In fact we heard the next day that one building had been burned. Mingled with the sirens were shouts from the hillside as people fought the blaze (rather vocally as some had been drinking the infamous jungle whiskey!) But luckily it was controlled. So not only are these people forced migrants, having to move at the whim of the Thai Government (the camp was relocated 18 months ago) but they face possible hostilities from the Burmese military (possibly less so in this location - other camps are more at risk), and also natural hazards like forest fires and malaria.

I spent about 10 days in the camp - and it was great. I was looked after very well and got to see lots of aspects of life there. I met and 'interviewed' Oo Ni Kay and Htwe Yee for scholarships to the UK and Canada (fingers crossed). Both are lovely girls who definately deserve the chance to study abroad. Both are dedicated to coming back to Mae La Oon camp and teaching so they can pass on their skills, education and experience. Oo Ni Kay also wants to set up a school back in her village in Karen State - if she gets the chance.

One of my best memories is of the drawing box. I took over some pencils, stickers, glitter and card with me (thanks Kathryn!) and we took the box down to the Sapo (dining hut). I started the ball rolling along with Win Win Yie and the girls and then left them to it. When I came back there were around 50 drawings! Everyone had done one or several! I spent a happy hour with the students putting the drawings up all over the Sapo (with all of Ben's blue-tack - please send him some more.) It looked amazing- and they were so proud of themselves. Some had drawn flowers and houses, one young lad was very good and had drawn an amazing landscape, there were plenty of footballers, and one of villagers being moved by the SPDC (Burmese military govt). 'Art' isnt taught in the camp (Oo Ni Kay told me that she had been told that her love of painting wasn't useful when she was younger) nor is music - though the well-loved guitar is alsways being played and formed an important part of the background noise - everything from Burmese songs to LeAnn Ryhmes!!! And Ben's Mum and I discussed how nice it would be if it was.

Ben's parents came for a couple of days - and we were deinately the talk of the town - four pale people!!!

Swimming was definately one of the highlights of the day. To be so hot and then be able to immerse yourselfin (slightly dirty) river water - mmmmm. Though my reflective legs and pajamas (swimming cozzie prob not to be recomended) did cause some amusment and Ben and I (and Geoff and Judith) always had a small following on the river bank - who would scream delightledly as the Pho Htaung River Monster came at them with some weed [hey - a guy's gotta make a living somehow].

I was a bit ill at the end of my stay but that can be glossed over now that I am well! But I was worried for a while that the cooks would take offence that I wasn't really eating anything they cooked. However I found out they were concerned that Ben wasn't letting me eat - as the one day I had managed to eat a fair amount of lunch was the day that Ben had gone to meet his parents - he he he!

Stubborn Beth bartering over the price of a pineapple.

One treat which was great when not suffering from traveller's belly is Yi Ga Thout. Now I think I will try to make it this summer - but I fear it may not be the same or have the same effect. I had it a couple of times in the middle of the day - and it was lovely. I think it consists of: ice, condensed milk, cherryade (though Ben informs me it can be green - so maybe limeade is a substitute?), crushed up peanuts, Burmese sweets (like jelly sweets) and white bread (really). Sounds great no?

The other treat to see was the films in the evening - not the films themselves of course (though Bugsy Malone was great Ben) but the audience. The reaction to the Athens Olympics was great - and I just wish I could be there to see them watch Bon Jovi in concert (one of the guys calls himself Bon Jovi - Dre you should meet him!) and Alan Titchmarsh's Great Britain video - which went down a storm at the office in Mae Sariang.

While I was there I got to see some teacher training in action. Some of the teachers had travelled a long way to be there and it was being conducted by some very dedicated individuals. Pho Htaung's lesson went down a storm - esp. 'Pho Htaung Says' - far superior to 'Simon Says'.

Anyways, I'll be here forever if I go through everything - but suffice to say that it was the best part of the trip and I am so glad I went. I have to say that Ben was a marvellous host - and i would recommend Hammond Tours to anyone.

The Burma Borderers in action...

Beth heads off to Mae Sot. Is it me or has Beth been wearing the same clothes pretty much non-stop (except for the second pic where she's clearly starkers)? ...Its either that or the mossie spray actually turned out to be super glue.

I've been in Mae Sot for a few days now, and have met some lovely people. It's the hub of the Burma NGO network here - and the projects are many and varied. I was especially moved by the talk and museum at the AAPPB office (the Assistance Association for Political Prisoners Burma). They monitor Burma's attrocious prisons (though they are an illegal organisation in Burma) and try to find out information on all of Burma's political prisoners - an immense task. It is all run by former political prisoners. The museum is an awful but brilliant testament to what goes on. They liase with Amnesty International and the UN but with thousands and thousands of political prisoners it is an impossible job and the conditions in Burma's prisons are among worst in the world.

Just one more point on this - whilst I've been here the Thai Government has rounded up all of the Persons of Concern (POCs) who are in Thailand. These are Burmese and ethnic peoples who the UN thinks are in danger if returned to Burma - but have no legal status as refugees. They have been given the chance to apply to be moved to a 3rd country and over 800 have applied - a huge number, and certainly more than the international community will take (I imagine going on the appalling attitude of the UK Government to Burmese asylum seekers at the moment that the UK will not be offering places). So all that is left for the remaining thousands are the already over-crowded border camps. This has dealt a double blow to the many democracy and grass roots organisations (including the AAPPB) who have lost many of their hard working and essential members to this relocation plan.

I have also heard from NGOs here that the POCs were allowed to be filmed by the Burmese military before they entered the camps. This is not only a gross abuse of human rights - but signals a very dangerous precedent. If the SPDC does enter the camps - then it can immediately identify these people - many of whom have been working for opposition groups.

So I'm afriad I end on a sour note - but then although it has been a once-in-a-lifetime trip and one with many happy memories - it has also left me angry, upset and frustrated with the way things are here. If you are at all interested in hearing more or want to do something to help the people of Burma - just drop Ben or I a line and we will be happy to talk to you.

Lots of love, Ma Sandar (beggady@yahoo.co.uk) xxxxxx