I'm at a bit of a loss - when you've only got 10 days, you attempt to pack lots in and it all zooms past so fast. But here goes a quick summary of this sojourn so far:

Burma Women's Union - Political Empowerment Training (Chiang Mai)

This was my first project visit on the trip and to be honest I've been bowled over. 12 young women - all refugees or former migrant workers from Burma - are following a 4-month course in gender and regional politics with the aim to develop their own agency so they have the skills and positive experiences to make changes to the world they've begun to investigate. Both Oo Nie Kie and Htwe Yee, two former students in Mae La Oon refugee camp last year, are on the course. Half an hour in, and I'd never been inside a room so full of spirit, love of life, mutual support, inquisitive minds and determination to learn.

It was truly amazing to see and hear, in the context of a society so rigidly and traditionally patriarchal with such little space for women to make decisions about their own lives let alone those of their communities around them, 12 super people giving their cogent. coherent and critical opinions on the make-up of the society of which they are a part. Epiphanies don't come along too often, but to have women who were previously not allowed to know about, entertain or share concerns of socio-political analysis now doing so, in albeit broken English, is phenomenal.

The training is the first of it's kind on the border. It's being run by a former Development Studies student who now works full time for the BWU, and who from the minute we met up had me buzzing about what she was trying to do. What was great to see (for a Citizenship teacher) was that it wasn't all happening at a theoretical level: the course is hands on. Last week the girls gave their first ever formal presentation to a group of invited dignatories on an issue that concerns them, each week they have a debate about a topical issue. We brainstormed ideas for how to make it all the more real too - for example in having the students design their own campaigns for women's rights (the winning campaign to actually be taken up by the BWU with all that it would entail - writing press releases, managing a project, building support amongst different groups, communicating the need for change, etc...). It's all a world away from their former lives - the unquestionable domesticity of a refugee camp hut or the inside of an iron-clad factory for 18 hours a day.

There are massive challenges, notably the careful fostering of a positive but realistic change experience during the course - so that the girls aren't crushed by the limits of a society that remains steadfastly dominated by men, and can see the rays of light within.

The course was initially scheduled to run for 6 months, but there's only enough money for 4. It'd be great if we could raise enough to extend it the extra two months, I believe the girls deserve it. Your sponsorship will go straight to making this happen and changing 12 emergent lives - you can donate by clicking on this link:

http://www.justgiving.com/nightstrider

I'll try to get some photos up as soon as I can to bring it home that bit more.

Everything Else: A trip down Lemory Mane

(1) it's fantastic to be back - I feel like I was never away and have hit the ground running (and sweating and scratching countless mosquito bites)

(2) it's been absolutely brilliant to see old friends again - and especially to speak with them in Burmese. Turns out I seem to have learned a bit more than I thought during the year just gone (though I'm still only a beginner) and it's wonderful fun to have a bash at it whenever I can here. It's also an amazing thing to have as it can break down all the usual barriers in an instant. On my visit to a migrant learning centre I was able to say hi and have a laugh with folks there in Burmese and it just wouldn't have been possible to do that had I yapped on in English. Have got to give the language learning a serious (daily) go when I get back!

(3) the journies have been great fun (as ever) - from the flights (adorned with Dubai football-watching (extra time) and mid-air pilot-announcement-induced momentary depression ("I regret to announce, England have lost. Again. to Portugal. Again. On Penalties. Again..."). But again, like two years ago, having something shiny and special lined up to follow such news is a good thing to have (last time Glastonbury, this time Thailand)) to the train journies (I love travelling rough).

(4) I permanently sweat, which I don't like. I thought I'd mention it again, as it's a big part of my everyday life.

(5) I can't wait to return here again - it's the second question everyone asks and the longer I stay the more affirmative my answer. Luckily being a teacher affords a bit of holiday time! If I come back at Christmas or Easter I'll be able to get back into the camp, too.

(6) And this IS phenomenal. Last night I was shown Google Earth for the first time (I am behind the times). You can go right into the refugee camp I was in - 4 hours inside the jungle! It's amazing amazing AMAZING! Can't wait to show you!

Right, am in Mae Sariang now staying with my hosts from last year. Off to Mae Sot today to visit more projects and friends, then Bangkok on Sunday night for my flight home on Monday. All too quick, all too soon, but all fires have been rekindled and I'm really excited about the adventures to come!

Cheers,

Ben, on the Thai-Burma Border, July 2006

http://www.justgiving.com/nightstrider